Wednesday, February 25, 2009

Risk-taking in the Kitchen

Do you practice safe cooking? Always follow a cookbook or professional's recipe to ensure good results, even if it means a special trip to the store to get all the ingredients?

Or are you willing to risk a little? Omit the ingredients you don't like? Make substitutions for ingredients with whatever you have on hand? Personalize a recipe for your tastes?

Locavores - people who strive to only eat foods grown within a certain distance of their home - are well-accustomed to using what they have locally. This often means substituting for ingredients in recipes. Minced jalapeno peppers can spice up a dish instead of ground black pepper. Chopped tender broccoli stems can stand in for asparagus in a cooked dish, while shredded raw broccoli stems can take the place of cabbage in slaw. Most winter squashes are interchangeable and yams can substitute in a pinch.

As a vegan, I've had lots of practice substituting for meat, dairy, and eggs. I also use very little added fat, which means many recipes also need to be altered for that. I've tried a couple of times to make a very lowfat pumpkin bread but had gooey results. My pumpkin muffins are tasty but a bit overly moist and quite high in sugar. The last time I made banana bread for my sweetie, I wondered if I might be able to make the recipe with pumpkin puree instead.

This morning, I decided to give it a whirl. I knew this was risky because pumpkin puree, after all, is not the same as mashed bananas. Besides not having the same amount of natural sweetness, I really wasn't sure how they would behave in this recipe. To cut the risk, I decided to use a very small amount of vegan margarine. Call it my safety net. I also changed up the spices and altered a few other things in the recipe.

When the timer dinged, I tentatively peeked in the oven and tested the bread. It was done. Not gooey, not burned. So far, so good. I impatiently waited 10 minutes while it cooled slightly. This is the perfect amount of time to wait before turning fatfree or very lowfat baked goods out of their pans. Muffins are baked in silicone muffin pans while all other baked goods are cooked in a plain glass pan with a silicone mat cut to fit. (You can see the red silicone mat at the bottom of the pan in the photo above if you click on it to enlarge the photo.)


Although it is better to let a quick bread cool completely before slicing, I wanted needed to know if it was edible. At first bite, I thought it might need more sugar. As I continued eating, though, I realized it is just fine the way it is. This is not your usual oily or buttery, very sweet pumpkin bread. Instead, this recipe yields a dense bread with a subtle understated flavor. It would be just as fitting on a lunch plate as the breakfast plate.

If you are looking to reduce the amount of fat or sugar that you eat, give this recipe a whirl.

Pumpkin Tea Loaf
2 1/4 cups whole white wheat flour (such as King Arthur's brand)
2 tsp baking powder
1 tsp baking soda
1 tsp cinnamon
1/4 tsp ground cloves
1/16 tsp ground nutmeg
1/16 tsp ginger
2 tbs vegan margarine, softened
3 tbs sugar
1 1/2 cups + 2 tbs pureed cooked pumpkin (or other winter squash)
3 tbs maple syrup
2 tsp vanilla

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Line a large loaf pan with parchment paper or silicone mat cut to fit.
Mix together dry ingredients in a medium sized bowl.
Cream margarine and sugar together in another bowl.
Add pumpkin, syrup, and vanilla to the margarine.
Add wet ingredients to dry mix and stir. The batter will be very thick.
Spoon into the prepared pan.
Bake 50 minute on center rack in oven.
Let cool for 10 minutes and then remove from pan.
Allow to cool completely on rack before slicing.

11 comments:

  1. Nice looking recipe! A good hint to get low fat baked goods such as this tea bread to rise: Do not overmix the ingredients. Stir just until wet and dry are just combined. Your final product will get a much better rise.

    Hope you're feeling a bit better, chile!

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  2. I take a lot of risks in the kitchen. Most recipes are for inspiration more than anything. But I used to be a lot more afraid to make my own substitutions on the fly.

    I think it's like anything- the more risk you take the better your chances both for failure and success.

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  3. Nomikins - I challenge you to avoid over-mixing this dough. It is VERY stiff and impossible not to mix and mix to get all of the dry stuff incorporated. Luckily, the fat in it from the margarine keeps it from getting tough. On the next try (I do still have a HUGE pumpkin to cook...), I may try adding more pumpkin and mixing less. Just really worried about making gooey bread again.

    I am feeling better now. Cutting out nuts, coconut, and caffeine are definite helps on the dizzy front.

    Angelina - you're correct. I hate the failures because I hate wasting food....and my dog doesn't like people food. I don't know what's wrong with her. ;-)

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  4. Mmm. I love pumpkin bread and I'm a substituter too. More with cooking than baking though.

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  5. I am definetely a risk taker- partily because I don't always have part of the ingredients, partly cause I get lazy in the kitchen. I don't wanna go to the store. The great thing about it is I come up with some wonderful variations on recipes- Things that would not happen if I followed the recipe to the letter. Mom, who is a recipe nazi, like to tell me "that something" is not going to turn out right- So? I believe in drawing outside the lines!

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  6. Nice! I totally practice risk taking in the kitchen. I think that if you want to eat locally and seasonally, you have to learn to substitute willy nilly. The results are usually pretty darn tasty.

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  7. I'm taking risks all the time, too. Seems like I am never able to stick to a recipe.

    Your bread looks fantastic and thanks for the silicone mat tip!

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  8. Try 1 for 1 substitution of apple sauce for oil. I use this substitution for all baked goods and have yet to run into a problem. This was passed on to me many years ago by a friend.

    I often will simply cut the sugar in half for recipes for quick breads and muffins without dire effects. Of course... after many years of doing this, I think my tongue has acquired the taste. I usually find that if I put the full amount of sugar in the items feel sticky somehow like their texture has changed.

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  9. Heather - substituting in baked goods can be a little more risky than in cooking. I hate having to toss gooey bread. :(

    Rob - laziness is just the nasty word for efficiency!

    Green Bean - the CSA has definitely broadened my substitution experience. Food's always good though.

    Mihl - just remember to get the solid color silicone mats if you want to cut them to fit. Do NOT cut the fiber-filled mats; it will expose the fibers and get in your food.

    Billie - yep, I've done that substitution for oil, along with prune puree, squash puree, and mashed pumpkin. I prefer the result from the prune puree. For the first time messing with a baked recipe, though, I do like to include a little fat. Then I can continue to tweak it. (This recipe originally should have had 1/4 cup oil. Note the "+ 2 tbs pumpkin puree" - that substituted for half that oil. :)

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  10. I also take the recipes as more of a recommendation than a strict directive. I don't do a lot of baking, so it's mostly for cooking. I usually make something once according to the recipe, and then just free-form it afterwords. Most of the time I don't have all the spices that the recipe calls for.

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  11. I'm starting to be a risk-taker now that I have to feed myself. My mom isn't as much though. I've realized that there's a whole world of cooking out there than I haven't been exposed to as a child because of it.

    Anyway. If I were back home and had pumpkin I would definitely try this recipe. Vegan baking. Who'da thunk. ;)

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